Trends may come and go, but Kung and Colombo say these ingredients have earned their place as mainstays in skin care.
Azelaic acid
Colombo says azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that make it an effective treatment for acne and rosacea.
Colombo says products containing 15 percent azelaic acid need a prescription, but those with 10 percent or less are often available over the counter.
Kung says zinc’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an effective ingredient for treating:
According to the NHS, zinc can help speed up wound healing. Kung also notes that zinc oxide is a common ingredient in sunscreen.
Before taking oral zinc, speak with a physician to ensure appropriate dosing.
Ascorbyl palmitate
Kung explains that this ingredient is a form of vitamin C. It’s used in skin care products to help:
Vitamin E & C
Kung says vitamin E is a potent antioxidant that can protect the skin cells from free radical damage and strengthen the skin’s barrier.
It’s found in foods, like spinach and broccoli, as well as supplements and topical creams and serums.
A 2016 review of vitamin E applications in dermatology indicated that topical uses of vitamins E and C in pharmaceuticals are often ineffective. In certain situations, however, vitamin E can combine with vitamin C to reduce skin cancer risks and sun damage.
Kung agrees that vitamins C and E can effectively team up to protect the skin. She adds that zinc oxide, niacinamide, vitamin C, and vitamin E work well together in sunscreens.
Individuals should always speak with a health care professional before taking supplements. Too much vitamin E obtained by supplements may lead to a small but increased chance of prostate cancer in men,
Retinol and retinoids
Retinol is an over-the-counter form of vitamin A, Kung explains. Retinoids, on the other hand, may need to be prescribed by a physician or dermatologist. However, Differin gel is one retinoid available over the counter.
Kung says they are often used for:
Kung says retinols and retinoids work to treat acne by exfoliating the skin at the cellular level.
Kung recommends peptides to patients seeking to slow down the visible signs of aging. These amino acids support collagen and elastin and can help achieve firmer skin.
Kung says using peptides and retinol together is generally safe and effective.
Better known as vitamin B-3, Kung says niacinamide can:
Green tea extract
Colombo says social media is right about this trendy antioxidant. She notes that green tea extract can:
Though Kung explains the body naturally produces the fatty acid known as ceramides, she says it’s useful in beauty products too. Ceramides may moisturize the skin and offer protection from environmental factors, like pollutants and extreme weather.
A 2020 study of individuals with eczema indicated that a cream or lotion with ceramides could relieve dryness and hydrate the skin after one topical application.
Hyaluronic acid
Sommerlad says this buzzy ingredient lives up to the hype by providing hydration.
“I recommend hyaluronic acid (HA) as it really helps keep the skin well hydrated which is key to a healthy skin barrier,” she says.
Kung says it can also help the skin appear plumper.
Why? Kung explains that hyaluronic acid traps water to the skin and attaches to collagen.
The body naturally produces HA to retain water to keep your tissues hydrated, but you can give your skin a boost by adding this ingredient to your routine too.
According to a 2021 study of 40 women ages 30 to 65 with signs of photoaging, HA was effective at improving:
It’s also known to help with wound healing, as noted by a 2022 review.
According to Kung, HA also works well with retinol.
Kojic acid
Colombo recommends kojic acid to patients who want to improve hyperpigmentation.
Kojic acid “inhibits melanin production, so it’s good for hyperpigmentation,” she says. Colombo notes that kojic acid is particularly beneficial to those sensitive to hydroquinone.
A 2019 study indicated that kojic acid was an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation when used in creams and lotions and could provide UV protection.
Tranexamic acid
Like kojic acid, Colombo says this ingredient can aid in treating hyperpigmentation. She says it’s also effective when used in combination with hydroquinone.
Bonus pick: thermal water
Another ingredient these three derms love is thermal water. This mineral-rich water is derived from natural springs and may help
“Thermal Spring water has a lot of beneficial qualities,” says Kung. “I personally use spring water after laser treatments on my patients, and it immediately reduces post-procedure redness.”
It’s also been shown to balance the skin’s
Colombo recommends it as a soothing treatment after laser procedures to help cool and calm down treated skin as well as during airplane travel to help hydrate skin on the go.
This content was originally published here.